Review: Ormaie Paris Tableau Parisien, 28, and 18-12—Plus When to Wear Them

Jason and I have an enduring love affair with the South of France. From sleepy stays in the hillside village of St. Jeannet, to people-watching and homeware-hunting in St. Paul de Vence, grabbing specialty coffee in Nice (check out these recommendations), and interviewing ad-world icons at LIONS, it’s a place that never loses its charm.

Strolling along La Croisette in Cannes during summer, the air is a medley of outfits and scents—Jo Malone’s Wood Sage & Sea Salt, Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s 724, Byredo’s Sundazed, and countless others. They mingle with the sea breeze, the sharp sun on the water, and the irresistible aroma of croissants and coffee from the cafés.

And, while I have nothing but adoration for all the fragrances above. I'm left wanting to find something, well, different and perhaps independent.

The Scent of New Beginnings?

What led to your last perfume purchase? Restocking an old favourite, a quick airport indulgence, or maybe something you saw on TikTok or Pinterest? The way we discover fragrance has completely shifted. Platforms like TikTok, where the hashtag (as of publishing) #fragrancetok has 283.2K posts, have turned scent into a cultural obsession. 

Viral pins like “You Smell So Put Together” and “This Scent Has Me in a Chokehold” guide audiences through newly found treasures. Discovery now happens through curated content, online communities, and deeply personal storytelling—far beyond boutique counters.

Perfume houses are catching on. Brands like Jouissance are partnering with curation accounts like @sockshousemeeting to ensure their scents feature in surgically precise curation posts, joining the likes of Monzo Bank in positioning their products squarely within the hyper-intentional zeitgeist. This, coupled with the rise of independent perfumeries crafting small-batch fragrances, reflects a now well-seasoned, new era in perfumery.

Back the quest to find something different and perhaps independent. I went on the hunt for a high-quality and well performing, natural fragrance. (Because that’s the ideal goal, right?) 

Enter Ormaie Paris. Crafted entirely from natural raw materials, Ormaie’s perfumes are free from synthetic chemicals commonly found in conventional fragrances, selecting raw materials based not only on their quality but also by the conditions in which they are produced.

Here is a review of three fragrances from the maison that capture the essence of standing out during summertime in the South of France—Tableau Parisien, 28, and 18-12.

All photographs are copyrighted and remain the exclusive property of Gabriel Tamez and THE GOODS Studio.

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Ormaie Paris Tableau Parisien

My first impression is floral cherry menthols—sharp and slightly medicinal. It’s a complex scent, not immediately inviting, with spice notes that verge on overpowering and tobacco undertones that might benefit from a lighter touch. Yet, there’s an undeniable warmth—a lived-in charm that feels oddly familiar, conjuring the image of a fabulous aunt: always on the go, laughing loudly, and loving fiercely.

Though it nods to the City of Light, Tableau Parisien feels more at home under the Provençal sun. It’s a fragrance of contrasts—nostalgic yet bold, box-fresh yet raw. Beneath the bright opening lies a richer, woodier heart, reminiscent of a well-used writing bureau. Like its composition, it offers moments of nostalgia, though its rough edges might polarise its audience.

If Chanel No. 22 is the Ivy League doctor—precise, irritably composed, and timeless—Tableau Parisien is the older sibling back from Europe, their suitcase full of stories and a scent of adventure clinging to their clothes. While No. 22 radiates a clean, aldehydic brightness, Tableau Parisien is moodier, steeped in florals and tobacco that evoke the dimly lit corners of a tasca in Lisbon on a moment-in-time midsummer night.

When to wear: strolling through a sunday market, afternoon catch up with an old friend, theatre and dinner date.

Ormaie Paris 28

My first impression is fresh, spirituous jasmine tea. It expeditiously takes my fancy, unfolding with an airy clarity that feels both invigorating and surprisingly bodacious. The fragrance softens over time, becoming more romantic as the day progresses. It also reminds me of Nuxe oil.

This scent feels like a tale of two halves. In the morning, it’s the perfect after-shower spritz to pair with freshly washed hair, light and bright as you head to breakfast. By midday, the base notes of immortelle—a sweet, dry herbaceous blend reminiscent of hay, tobacco, and honey—emerge with joy, think sipping tea in a stone-walled garden on your first real summer day of the year.

If you like Gyspy Water by Byredo or Belgravia Chypre Penhaligon or Eau de Fleurs Neroli from Chloé, you will simply adore 28.

The dry-down reveals a gentle interplay of woods and resinous undertones, offering a contemplative elegance. It’s a fragrance of stillness and warmth, perfect for unhurried conversations over morning coffee on vacation. Unfussy yet unforgettable—a scent that captivates by glancing.

When to wear: morning brunch, first intro meeting, small intimate gathering of friends

A Wild Card: The Story Behind Ormaie Paris 18-12

Baptiste Bouygues, co-owner and co-founder of Ormaie, created 18-12 as a gift for his mother—a deeply personal gesture of love. That sentiment shines through in every facet of this fragrance, making it as much an emotional experience as a sensory one.

I first wore 18-12 on a warm August evening last year, and it’s been with me every week since—a constant companion through seasons and moments. But it’s in the summer heat that this fragrance truly blooms. Light, feminine, and airy, it hugs with a clean, fruity-sweet profile that radiates happiness.

At first spritz, the fragrance greets you with the dewy brightness of fresh rose, softened and sweetened by gourmand notes of cherry and sugared frangipane. Think sunlit white linens billowing on a breezy terrace overlooking a meadow of wildflowers. Or the first kiss shared as newlyweds—a moment saturated in pure, unfiltered contentment.

Whether for an impromptu coffee date or an exploration of the coastline with Jason and Louis, 18-12 has become my go-to for embodying a tender, cosy femininity. Fresh, loving, and endlessly inviting, it's heartfelt. 

Which to Choose?

If you crave depth and edge, Tableau Parisien is magnetic. Bitter florals, smoky tobacco, and a lived-in warmth make it unapologetically bold. Perfect for shadowy corners and sultry nights in the South of France.

For lovers of freshness with bite, 28 captivates. Jasmine tea snaps with clarity, while honeyed immortelle brings a raw, sun-drenched sweetness. It drifts effortlessly from sunlit breakfasts to candlelit dinners, equally alive in Provence’s heat or winter’s cool.

Yearning for softness with a pulse? 18-12 hums with fruity cherry and almond, radiating quiet intimacy. Ideal for breezy mornings and slow coastal walks, it thrives in summer but lingers beautifully, no matter the season.